A Town That Still Fishes
Ulcinj has been a fishing town for as long as anyone can trace. The small harbour below the Old Town walls is still a working port — trawlers and smaller boats head out before dawn and return with crates of sea bass, bream, mullet, squid, and octopus. By 7am the catch is on display at the portside market, and by noon the same fish is grilling on charcoal at restaurants across town.
This direct connection between boat and plate is increasingly rare on the Adriatic coast. In Budva or Kotor, much of the fish served in restaurants is imported or farmed. In Ulcinj, the supply chain is 200 metres long. It shows in the flavour.
Where to Eat
Inside the Old Town Walls
Two or three restaurants operate inside the fortress walls, each with outdoor terraces overlooking the sea. The setting is dramatic — stone arches, candlelight, and the sound of waves below. The menus are short and fish-heavy: grilled whole sea bass, octopus salad, and calamari rings are standard. Prices are slightly higher than at the port, but the atmosphere is the draw. For more on the Old Town itself, see our walking guide.
At the Port
The restaurants lining the harbour are simpler — plastic chairs, paper tablecloths, and fish so fresh it barely needs seasoning. This is where locals eat. Order whatever the waiter recommends — it will be whatever was best in the morning catch. Black risotto (crni rižot) made with cuttlefish ink is a house speciality at several portside spots. A full meal with wine runs €12–18 per person.
Ada Bojana Stilt Restaurants
The river-fish restaurants at Ada Bojana serve a completely different menu: freshwater carp, eel, and trout pulled from the Bojana River and grilled over open fires on wooden platforms built over the water. The experience is as much about the setting as the food — the river flows beneath your feet, herons fish in the shallows, and the Albanian mountains rise in the distance. Read more in our Ada Bojana guide.
What to Order
Grilled whole fish is the foundation of Ulcinj's seafood kitchen. Sea bass (brancin) and sea bream (orada) are the most common — served with olive oil, lemon, and blitva (Swiss chard with potatoes). Octopus is prepared two ways: grilled (hobotnica na žaru) or stewed under a peka (a domed metal lid covered in embers). Both are excellent.
For starters, try buzara — prawns or mussels cooked in white wine, garlic, and breadcrumbs. The local version uses whatever shellfish arrived that morning. Finish with a shot of loza (grape brandy) or a glass of Vranac from the Crmnica valley — Montenegro's signature red wine.
The Fish Market
If you are self-catering, the portside market opens at 6:30am and the best selection is gone by 8am. Fishermen sell directly from their boats — point at what you want and agree a price. Whole fish is sold by the kilogram. Take it back to your accommodation and grill it yourself with local olive oil from the Ulcinj olive groves.
Practical Tips
- Best time: Lunch for the freshest fish. Evening for atmosphere in the Old Town.
- Payment: Port restaurants and the fish market are cash-only. Old Town restaurants accept cards.
- Season: Fresh fish is available year-round, but the variety is widest from April to October.
- Reservations: Not needed at the port. Recommended for Old Town terrace tables in July–August.