The Bay Nobody Mentions
Valdanos Bay lies about 5 km north of Ulcinj, tucked between two headlands and invisible from the main road. The bay is small — perhaps 300 metres across — and enclosed on three sides by steep hills covered in olive trees. The water is deep, clear, and sheltered from the open sea. In a region that markets its 12 km beach, Valdanos goes largely unmentioned.
There is no hotel, no resort, no beach club. A handful of abandoned buildings from a socialist-era holiday complex sit overgrown among the olives, adding a faintly post-apocalyptic atmosphere that some visitors find beautiful and others find eerie. The beach itself is pebbly, the water is excellent for snorkelling, and the overall feeling is of a place that tourism forgot.
Getting There
From Ulcinj, drive north on the main road toward Bar. After about 3 km, a signed left turn leads to Valdanos. The road narrows immediately and winds downhill through dense olive groves for about 2 km before opening onto the bay. The surface is paved but rough in places — any car can manage it, but take it slowly on the bends.
Park at the end of the road where the asphalt meets the shore. There are no facilities — no toilets, no shops, no shade structures. Bring everything you need for the day. On the drive back up, turn left toward Mirovica to visit the Old Town or continue to the Old Olive Tree.
The Olive Groves
The hills surrounding Valdanos hold an estimated 10,000 olive trees, many of them centuries old. The groves are part of the same agricultural belt that stretches from Ulcinj to Bar and produces some of the best olive oil in the western Balkans. Walking through the groves above the bay is a quiet, meditative experience — the trees filter the light and the air smells of warm resin. For more on the region's olive heritage, see our guide to the Old Olive Tree and the olive trail.
Swimming and Snorkelling
The water in Valdanos is among the clearest on the Montenegrin coast. The pebbly seabed drops away quickly, making it ideal for snorkelling — sea urchins, small fish, and occasionally octopus are visible close to the rocks on either side of the bay. The bay is sheltered from the prevailing south-westerly wind, so the water stays calm even when Velika Plaza is choppy.
The Abandoned Resort
In the 1970s and 1980s, a holiday complex operated on the bay's eastern shore. The buildings have stood empty for decades and are now partially reclaimed by vegetation. Plans for redevelopment have been announced and abandoned repeatedly. For now, the ruins add to the bay's atmosphere of benign neglect — a reminder that not every beautiful place in Montenegro needs a five-star hotel.
Practical Tips
- Road: Paved but narrow with tight bends. Drive slowly and honk on blind corners — oncoming traffic has no room to pass.
- Bring: Water, food, sun protection, snorkelling gear. There are zero facilities at the bay.
- Best time: Morning for swimming (calm water, soft light). Afternoon for the olive groves (golden hour through the trees).
- Crowds: Even in August, Valdanos rarely has more than a dozen people. Weekday mornings you may have it to yourself.