The Southern Shore Nobody Takes
Lake Skadar is the largest lake in the Balkans and one of Europe's most important bird habitats. Most tourists approach it from the north, via the town of Virpazar on the Podgorica–Bar highway. That route is well-known, well-signposted, and busy with tour boats in summer.
From Ulcinj, there is a different way in. The southern shore of the lake is accessed via a mountain road that climbs through the villages above the coast and drops down to the hamlet of Murici — a handful of houses, a pebble beach, and boat operators who will take you out to see the pelicans and water lilies. The whole southern shore receives a fraction of the traffic that Virpazar gets.
The Drive from Ulcinj
Head north from Ulcinj on the main road toward Bar. After about 20 km, turn left at Vladimir — a small town in the hills behind the coast. The road climbs through farmland and forest, crossing a low ridge before descending to the lakeshore. The total drive is about 45 minutes. The road is paved throughout but narrow in sections — pass oncoming traffic carefully.
Along the way you pass through the Bojana River valley. A short detour from this road leads to the ruins of Sas Fortress — a medieval trading city that was once a rival to Dubrovnik.
Murici Beach
Murici is a tiny settlement at the water's edge with a pebble beach shaded by trees. The water is fresh, clean, and warm enough for swimming from June to September. A couple of family-run restaurants serve grilled fish and cold beer. There are no hotels — this is a day-trip destination.
The view across the lake from Murici is remarkable. The water stretches to the Albanian border and the mountains rise steeply on all sides. In the early morning, mist sits on the surface and the only sounds are birds and the occasional fisherman's motor.
Boat Trips to the Pelicans
Local boat operators at Murici offer trips into the deeper parts of the lake where Dalmatian pelicans — one of Europe's rarest birds — nest among the floating islands of water lilies. The pelican colony is most active from April to August. A boat trip lasts 1–2 hours and costs around €20–30 per person. Ask at the waterfront restaurants to arrange one.
Combining with Other Stops
The drive to Murici passes through the same hills that hold Ulcinj's olive groves. On the return trip, stop for a late lunch at a portside restaurant in Ulcinj — check our seafood guide.
Practical Tips
- Road: Paved but narrow. One lane in sections — use passing places for oncoming traffic.
- Swimming: The lake water at Murici is clean and warm. Bring water shoes — the beach is pebbly.
- Birdwatching: Bring binoculars. Pelicans, herons, cormorants, and eagles are regularly spotted.
- Fuel: Fill up in Ulcinj or Bar. There are no fuel stations between Vladimir and Murici.